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<blockquote data-quote="LL" data-source="post: 119468" data-attributes="member: 95">This.Shaving/shaping stems is simplicity itself, conceptually, but tricky in practice.&nbsp; Most pipe carvers and repairmen make hundreds before producing something truly good.If you have calipers, use them.&nbsp; Don&#039;t go any thinner than .155&quot; behind the button for vulcanite, and .160 for acrylic, and put something in the draft hole like a toothpick or length of white plastic rod to keep track of where the airway is.&nbsp; Many are NOT centered vertically when new.Unless you have lots of specialty tools and experience, the end result won&#039;t look like much, either, though it could well be more comfortable to clench.&nbsp; If that&#039;s your only goal, have at it.&nbsp; Just go slow and check OFTEN.&nbsp; If you expect to produce a bite zone and button that looks &quot;factory made&quot; on your first try, fugeddaboudit.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="LL, post: 119468, member: 95"] This. Shaving/shaping stems is simplicity itself, conceptually, but tricky in practice. Most pipe carvers and repairmen make [b]hundreds[/b] before producing something truly good. If you have calipers, use them. Don't go any thinner than .155" behind the button for vulcanite, and .160 for acrylic, and put something in the draft hole like a toothpick or length of white plastic rod to keep track of where the airway is. Many are NOT centered vertically when new. Unless you have lots of specialty tools and experience, the end result won't look like much, either, though it could well be more comfortable to clench. If that's your only goal, have at it. Just go slow and check OFTEN. If you expect to produce a bite zone and button that looks "factory made" on your first try, fugeddaboudit. [/QUOTE]

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