Broken Shank

[Bugsahearn]

hey a piece of the shank (about a third) broke of my fav yello bole. What would be the best way to repair it? What kind of glue is safe?

 

[Hermit]

I've used Elmer's Yellow Carpenter's Glue.
It was a nice clean break and the repair has held for years.

 

[Bugsahearn]

thanks..I smoke kind of hot at times...are the fumes safe?

 

[RDPipes]

thanks..I smoke kind of hot at times...are the fumes safe?

If your getting the shank hot it's time to slow down the puff'en sir.

 

[ontariopiper]

I've had good results using JB Kwik-Weld on shanks and bowls. Elmer's should work fine too if the break is not close to the chamber (ie where the shank is cooler).

You can also cut a short length of brass or aluminum tubing to glue inside the airway for a stronger repair. I found some 3/16" tubing at a local hobby store that has a 5/32" interior diameter (matches the airway of most pipes). I drill a 3/16" mortise on either side of the break to countersink the tubing, avoiding any rough edges that might snap a pipe cleaner.

Good luck with your repair!

 

[Dutch]

Elmers Pro Bond is good to go at the bowl shank junction of cobs, so you know it will be safe anywhere further up the shank towards the bit.

 

[Bugsahearn]

thanks for the tips guys! what about krazy glue

 

[Dutch]

Bugs, you would have to be krazy to use krazy glue. In fact, I can't think of much of anything I would want to use it on, since it usually turns loose in short order anyhow on anything other than fingertips.

You definitely don't want to be breathing that stuff.

 

[Piffyr]

Bugs, you would have to be krazy to use krazy glue. In fact, I can't think of much of anything I would want to use it on, since it usually turns loose in short order anyhow on anything other than fingertips.

You definitely don't want to be breathing that stuff.

Sorry, Dutch, but I disagree wholeheartedly. Krazy Glue or any other brand of CA adhesive is perfectly fine for pipe repairs as long as it isn't used in the chamber where it will come into contact with direct flame. CA has excellent "wicking" abilities. So, it will will penetrate the porous wood and make a very strong bond. I've used it for many pipe repairs and have never had a problem with it losing adhesion, even with well over a year's worth of regular use.

As for toxicity, CA is safe. In fact, it's actually a medically approved adhesive. It may fume under very high heat (unlikely outside of the chamber) but moisture polymerizes the fumes and renders them inert. Between the moisture in the smoke and your mucous membranes, it's pretty much impossible to breathe it in.

 

[Dutch]

Bugs, you would have to be krazy to use krazy glue. In fact, I can't think of much of anything I would want to use it on, since it usually turns loose in short order anyhow on anything other than fingertips.

You definitely don't want to be breathing that stuff.

Sorry, Dutch, but I disagree wholeheartedly. Krazy Glue or any other brand of CA adhesive is perfectly fine for pipe repairs as long as it isn't used in the chamber where it will come into contact with direct flame. CA has excellent "wicking" abilities. So, it will will penetrate the porous wood and make a very strong bond. I've used it for many pipe repairs and have never had a problem with it losing adhesion, even with well over a year's worth of regular use.

As for toxicity, CA is safe. In fact, it's actually a medically approved adhesive. It may fume under very high heat (unlikely outside of the chamber) but moisture polymerizes the fumes and renders them inert. Between the moisture in the smoke and your mucous membranes, it's pretty much impossible to breathe it in.

Piffyr, I never had any luck getting Krazy Glue to hold anything except fingertips. I'll probably stick with regular Elmers or Elmers Pro Bond as long as I have a choice. I always dislike having to go back and do a repair over, since it's not as easy to fix the second time around with the cleanup of materials involved.

 

[Piffyr]

Piffyr, I never had any luck getting Krazy Glue to hold anything except fingertips. I'll probably stick with regular Elmers or Elmers Pro Bond as long as I have a choice. I always dislike having to go back and do a repair over, since it's not as easy to fix the second time around with the cleanup of materials involved.

Can't fault you for that, Dutch. It's always best to use what works best for you and that may not be what works best for someone else. I know that there are methods and materials that are used by some guys with great success, but they just fall flat for me. I did want to make sure that we're clear on the toxicity thing though. I don't want anyone thinking that I'm poisoning people. I do a lot of research on the materials that I use to repair and refinish pipes before I put them into practice.

One downside to CA (and it may be part of your experience) is that it doesn't have much shear strength. PVA adhesives like Elmer's are much better in that regard. In either case, I'd definitely suggest either banding the shank or adding an internal shim to give it some rigidity like ontariopiper suggested. Personally, I'd use either stainless steel or delrin for the internal shim. They won't corrode like brass or aluminum.

 

[Bugsahearn]

I use titebond...the break only starts at the tenon so i don't think the glue will really heat up much

 

[Piffyr]

I use titebond...the break only starts at the tenon so i don't think the glue will really heat up much

I don't think I'd use Titebond for that repair. It's a polyurethane adhesive. So, it expands as it cures. You're definitely going to want to band it or shim it whatever you use. Otherwise, it's likely to re-break in the future. There's a lot of stress around the tenon, especially during removal and insertion.

 

[Bugsahearn]

Ok we'll see how long it last. the break was such that it pretty much stayed in place without any glue, so i used as little as possible. I think it will keep as long i'm careful..should i be worried about the toxicity tho

 

[Piffyr]

..should i be worried about the toxicity tho

No. You'll be fine. Titebond is non-toxic. I wouldn't eat it though. :lol:

 

[Bugsahearn]

thanks guys...i only used the thinest little line of glue (one the end of a toothpick) to glue broken shank so i'll let you know how the titebonds hold up. it's my everyday smoker...a yb shell billiard..a damn good smoker...the tenon comes and goes real easy it's not tight at all but it also never slips so it should;t be a problem.

 

[Sid.Stavros]

A photo "before-after" would help us to understand better.