Good Score on a Savinell from an Antique Store

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Swede

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I occasionally check antique stores for pipes, and recently found this Oscar Aged Briar in what I think is called a lumberman shape. Savinelli had a similar shape on their website as an 815 KS. This one is without the word Savinelli, as far as I can see. But, it does have S below two pipes bit to bit logo, and is marked Italy. I almost passed on it before I figured out what it was. I think it has beautiful grain, and like the large bowl. But, it needs work, as can be seen below. Has cake, but not a lot. Cost me $20. I've been told Savinellis always are structurally good pipes, so can be counted on to smoke well. Swede
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I occasionally check antique stores for pipes, and recently found this Oscar Aged Briar in what I think is called a lumberman shape. Savinelli had a similar shape on their website as an 815 KS. This one is without the word Savinelli, as far as I can see. But, it does have S below two pipes bit to bit logo, and is marked Italy. I almost passed on it before I figured out what it was. I think it has beautiful grain, and like the large bowl. But, it needs work, as can be seen below. Has cake, but not a lot. Cost me $20. I've been told Savinellis always are structurally good pipes, so can be counted on to smoke well. Swede
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Swede, I agree with Ol’Dawg. $20 is cheap. Looks like a solid pipe that will restore well. Micro mesh sanding pads work great and will get the tooth marks off the stem. Some guys won’t use it, but a tiny bit of Murphy’s Oil Soap will clean years of old dirt and oils from the briar. Just cork the chamber. Key is to use very, very, little oil soap. Wet cloth afterward. Then apply your wax. Pretty easy.
 
Swede, I agree with Ol’Dawg. $20 is cheap. Looks like a solid pipe that will restore well. Micro mesh sanding pads work great and will get the tooth marks off the stem. Some guys won’t use it, but a tiny bit of Murphy’s Oil Soap will clean years of old dirt and oils from the briar. Just cork the chamber. Key is to use very, very, little oil soap. Wet cloth afterward. Then apply your wax. Pretty easy.
Thanks ya'll, and I guess I under rated the score. The thing I'm happiest most with is the aged briar, and hope that is more than just marketing. I'm sure going to follow that advice on clean up. I used a very little diluted Murphy's Oil Soap on that Parker churchwarden, and man did it help with the lava. For wax, I used some old beard wax with bees wax, shea butter and other stuff, and it helped. Also used mineral oil on the stem of the Vauen Dr Perl making it pretty shiny. Got that pipe from the same place and booth. I'm smoking it now.
 
Thanks ya'll, and I guess I under rated the score. The thing I'm happiest most with is the aged briar, and hope that is more than just marketing. I'm sure going to follow that advice on clean up. I used a very little diluted Murphy's Oil Soap on that Parker churchwarden, and man did it help with the lava. For wax, I used some old beard wax with bees wax, shea butter and other stuff, and it helped. Also used mineral oil on the stem of the Vauen Dr Perl making it pretty shiny. Got that pipe from the same place and booth. I'm smoking it now.
I use a product called Halcyon which is pipe wax, but bees wax sounds like it would work as long as it’s not sticky afterward. The more natural the better! Nice pipe adoption. 😀
 
I occasionally check antique stores for pipes, and recently found this Oscar Aged Briar in what I think is called a lumberman shape. Savinelli had a similar shape on their website as an 815 KS. This one is without the word Savinelli, as far as I can see. But, it does have S below two pipes bit to bit logo, and is marked Italy. I almost passed on it before I figured out what it was. I think it has beautiful grain, and like the large bowl. But, it needs work, as can be seen below. Has cake, but not a lot. Cost me $20. I've been told Savinellis always are structurally good pipes, so can be counted on to smoke well. Swede
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At one time, the 310 Pipes Shop in Murfreesboro, TN did offer unfinished Savinelli pipes available. The pipes were not seconds. I bought one for about $35. Unfortunately the mom and pop shop closed . They were really nice folks and had a great assortment plus prices too.
The "Humidor" may have been changed the shop at the about same location.
 
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I occasionally check antique stores for pipes, and recently found this Oscar Aged Briar in what I think is called a lumberman shape. Savinelli had a similar shape on their website as an 815 KS. This one is without the word Savinelli, as far as I can see. But, it does have S below two pipes bit to bit logo, and is marked Italy. I almost passed on it before I figured out what it was. I think it has beautiful grain, and like the large bowl. But, it needs work, as can be seen below. Has cake, but not a lot. Cost me $20. I've been told Savinellis always are structurally good pipes, so can be counted on to smoke well. Swede
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Swede,

I have that same shape of Savinelli pipe in the Roma finish bought new from SP.com. Mine is stamped 816KS. I have some older Savinellis dating back about 15 to 20 years, and, based on what I see as markings on some of them, I see you have an Oscar. They are good pipes and smoke nicely.
 
Swede,

I have that same shape of Savinelli pipe in the Roma finish bought new from SP.com. Mine is stamped 816KS. I have some older Savinellis dating back about 15 to 20 years, and, based on what I see as markings on some of them, I see you have an Oscar. They are good pipes and smoke nicely.
Carl,
That's good and encouraging information. I always like to know the shape number Savinelli uses, and I'm glad it has a larger bowl for packing plenty of tobacco. I'm leaning towards a quick clean and disinfect so I can smoke it some before launching into a restore. Those light areas around the end of the stummel will take some time to find a matching stain. I like new pipes, but there is something extra about finding an estate type pipe.
 
Sharp bullseye there. I wouldn't be afraid to hit it with some baby shampoo* and a tube brush. I used to use Murphy's, and while it worked well, it doesn't work as well as running water and giving a pipe a scrub. I've done this many times now, and it is my new way to clean a pipe.

*a friend of mine gave me a bottle of Bacti-Stat AE soap, and I've been using it instead of the baby shampoo. I still think baby shampoo works well, and I originally used it because it is a mild, thoroughly rinseable soap that I had handy for using on wool and delicate clothing (cheaper and just as good as Woolite in my experience). This Bacti-Stat AE soap works better, and it rinses without a residual smell or any leftover flavor from possible perfumes etc. I really like the results I've gotten with this soap. It's almost as strong as a cleanser as Dawn dish soap, and to be honest, I wouldn't have an issue using Dawn at this point. I've found that both briar and the finishes are a lot tougher than we think. You will have to re-wax it after a running water scrub, though. Sounds like you have plans to do that anyway.
 
Sharp bullseye there. I wouldn't be afraid to hit it with some baby shampoo* and a tube brush. I used to use Murphy's, and while it worked well, it doesn't work as well as running water and giving a pipe a scrub. I've done this many times now, and it is my new way to clean a pipe.

*a friend of mine gave me a bottle of Bacti-Stat AE soap, and I've been using it instead of the baby shampoo. I still think baby shampoo works well, and I originally used it because it is a mild, thoroughly rinseable soap that I had handy for using on wool and delicate clothing (cheaper and just as good as Woolite in my experience). This Bacti-Stat AE soap works better, and it rinses without a residual smell or any leftover flavor from possible perfumes etc. I really like the results I've gotten with this soap. It's almost as strong as a cleanser as Dawn dish soap, and to be honest, I wouldn't have an issue using Dawn at this point. I've found that both briar and the finishes are a lot tougher than we think. You will have to re-wax it after a running water scrub, though. Sounds like you have plans to do that anyway.
Thanks Zeno, I've been wanting something mild, and baby shampoo (maybe a scent free too) sounds good. I think the Parker Campaign churchwarden rim lava I cleaned up with Murphy's oil soap left the top of the bowl a little faded. I guess that could be something to do with what the lava does to the finish. The other soaps sound good too. I'll see where to get the Bacti-Stat, and we use Dawn on the dishes. I need to get some dedicatex pipe wax, instead of my old beard wax with bees wax.
 
Swede, I agree with Ol’Dawg. $20 is cheap. Looks like a solid pipe that will restore well. Micro mesh sanding pads work great and will get the tooth marks off the stem. Some guys won’t use it, but a tiny bit of Murphy’s Oil Soap will clean years of old dirt and oils from the briar. Just cork the chamber. Key is to use very, very, little oil soap. Wet cloth afterward. Then apply your wax. Pretty easy.
Sturdy,

Where do you get those ultra fine mesh sanding pads? I don't know why it's true that my saliva seems to congeal on the stems of my pipes, and I have a hard time getting it off and polishing them. I use very fine ladies' nail polishing sticks to get most of the crud off and to try to remove the worst of the pits on my stems. That works to a degree, but I'm usually left with a brown stem near the button. I'm not sure whether that's a result of digging too far into the vulcanite or why it happens. I have ordered a small bottle of
Swede, I agree with Ol’Dawg. $20 is cheap. Looks like a solid pipe that will restore well. Micro mesh sanding pads work great and will get the tooth marks off the stem. Some guys won’t use it, but a tiny bit of Murphy’s Oil Soap will clean years of old dirt and oils from the briar. Just cork the chamber. Key is to use very, very, little oil soap. Wet cloth afterward. Then apply your wax. Pretty easy.
Sturdy,

Where did you get your Micro mesh pads? I would like to try them to finish polishing my vulcanite stems. I use ladies' fine nail polishers to get them basically polished, but they seem to leave a layer of brown residue at the end. Maybe I'm digging into the rubber too much? In any case, I've ordered a small bottle of obsidian oil to try to blacken them up, maybe that will help. Do let me know about those pads, please.
 
You can pick up a set of micromesh pads on ebay for around $15. This is the one I have bookmarked, but I'm not sure if it is still the least expensive on ebay. I use a magic eraser and then/or toothpaste with a cotton cloth, but I'm not obsessive about my vulcanite stems. I'm smoking them, not photographing them for a magazine article.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/193822864172
 
Sturdy,

Where do you get those ultra fine mesh sanding pads? I don't know why it's true that my saliva seems to congeal on the stems of my pipes, and I have a hard time getting it off and polishing them. I use very fine ladies' nail polishing sticks to get most of the crud off and to try to remove the worst of the pits on my stems. That works to a degree, but I'm usually left with a brown stem near the button. I'm not sure whether that's a result of digging too far into the vulcanite or why it happens. I have ordered a small bottle of

Sturdy,

Where did you get your Micro mesh pads? I would like to try them to finish polishing my vulcanite stems. I use ladies' fine nail polishers to get them basically polished, but they seem to leave a layer of brown residue at the end. Maybe I'm digging into the rubber too much? In any case, I've ordered a small bottle of obsidian oil to try to blacken them up, maybe that will help. Do let me know about those pads, please.
Hey Carl,
As Zeno said, the Micro-Mesh pads can be purchased on eBay. Make sure you get the color coded variety with the rounded corners. Also, look at the sellers feedback. The last sets I ordered took around ten days and there are guys who guarantee delivery in four days. Vulcanite stems turn that brown color at first, but as you go through the grit levels it gets better and better. Don’t skip a grit number. The stem will look nearly new when completed. I normally soak the stem in OxyClean for a few minutes before I work on it. That cleans all the **** off and makes the stem chalky. You will think you ruined it, but it’s just one of the steps. The wax I use can be purchased at Smokingpipes.com. Rub it on...wait till it drys to a film...rub it off with a microfiber cloth. Some guys will put it on a buffing wheel, but I don’t recommend that at all! Usually diminishes the nomenclature from the pipe and just gives it an unnatural look. But, I’m one of those guys that like natural finishes that darken with age. Hope this helps.
 
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Yes micro mesh, then I generally hit the stem with Mr. Clean pad. Apply some obsidian oil and let it sit over night. Buff and wax it with the fully restored stummel.
Jim PM, A man after my own heart. I have 14 Savinellis, including a brand new 173 bent apple in the Tortuga finish. I have a few Petersons, a Radice, an Ascorti, a Brebbia, a Caminetto, and a MM cob, so you can see that I'm partial to Italian brands. Except for the Caminetto, the high end Italians were bought as estate pipes. I doubt that you can find a better pipe than a Savinelli for the prices they charge for most of their offerings.
 
Jim PM, A man after my own heart. I have 14 Savinellis, including a brand new 173 bent apple in the Tortuga finish. I have a few Petersons, a Radice, an Ascorti, a Brebbia, a Caminetto, and a MM cob, so you can see that I'm partial to Italian brands. Except for the Caminetto, the high end Italians were bought as estate pipes. I doubt that you can find a better pipe than a Savinelli for the prices they charge for most of their offerings.
I agree 100% on your last statement. I'm generally frugal so I don't play in the Artisan market. Cannot beat a Savinelli for the price range. Speaking of other Italian pipes, I've had good luck with both Rossi & Molina, of course Savinelli has their hands in that pie too.
 

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