"Brand new" Dunhill w/Vulcanite stem appears used...Help!

[Trakehner]

Hello Everyone! I'm new to this so here's my question...My husband purchased a "brand new in box" Dunhill on Ebay, and when he got it, it had brownish oxidation marks on the mouthpiece, the stem was not shiny as all other Dunhills, and there was some residue/oxidation on the inside of the mouthpiece as well. My husband has several other Dunhills, many of which are much older than this one (its an '04). The one he bought does not appear to have near the quality look as his older ones. Lastly, the box the pipe was sent in was for a "Chestnut," but the pipe is an Amber Root.
THe seller says that its just oxidation from being made, and he used to import Dunhills, so he claims he'd know. This pipe just doesn't seem like "brand new" Dunhill quality. As I stated, his smoked, non-cleaned Dunhills don't even have these marks. Any references and information would be very greatly valued! Thank you everyone!

 

[gravel]

Hi! Welcome to BoB. It's likely just as the seller said, but it is difficult to help without pictures. Do you have any pictures of the pipe you could email to me if I give you an email address? I'll post them for you if that is the case.

 

[Ocelot55]

Oxidation is common with vulcanite stems. It turns them from a nice glossy black to a slightly greenish colour. It is perfectly normal, although some things, such as being out in the sunlight, can cause oxidation to occur faster than usual. If it bothers you that much you could send it to a repair shop to remove the oxidation.

Oh, and if you thought you were getting a Chestnut and got an Amber Root instead that is a bit of luck. The amber roots are typically more expensive than the chestnuts, also the chestnuts (and some amber roots) usually come with a Cumberland, sometimes called Brindle, stem. This stem looks like it has streaks of red in it.

As always pics would help.

 

[sstodvictory]

It could be new old stock (NOS), and it would not be unusual for a NOS pipe that had been out of its box for display in a store for a long time, to get separated from its original box, depending on how organized the store is. The same scenario could explain the stem oxidation, and that will buff out.

If its dramatically more oxidized near the bit than the rest of the stem, it could be that some shoppers have given the display pipe the "mouth test", or worst case scenario its not new after all.

Steve

 

[Natch]

Previous posts, I think, describe the oxidation of vulcanite stems well, even if stored in a box and never used. Do a search on cleaning vulcanite stems on this site and you should get a number of ways to clean it up. A light coating of wax after should retard future oxidation, but it is a constant (albeit it minor) problem with that type of stem material.

Natch

 

[KevinM]

Ditto re: the above. Vigorus app of a rough cotton cloth helps keep oxidartion of vulcanite stems at bay. To be more aggressive, get a couple of micromesh finishing pads. I've found repeated apps of a drop of Brebbia stem polish is helpful. (Use Brebbia, not Dunhill. They're the same thing, but the Dunhill product costs 2X as much.) And as an oxidation preventative, there's much to be said for good 'ol mineral oil. Just dip the teensiest bit of your pinky finder in the stuff, put the smallest drop on the front- and backside of the bit, and, with your fingers, spread it equally on the bit. Let it absorb for a half hour. Then lightly wipe off the residue with a cloth. If there's much MO left on the stem, you used too much. At worst it's an aesthetic problem. Good luck.

 

[Anonymous]

Since nobody seems to have mentioned it, (sun)light accentuates oxidation of vulcanite. If it were a display pipe in a store window, you'd expect that after some time.

FWIW

:face:

 

[riff raff]

Since nobody seems to have mentioned it, (sun)light accentuates oxidation of vulcanite. If it were a display pipe in a store window, you'd expect that after some time.

FWIW

:face:

I've seen oxidized stems on new pipes as decribed, stored in glass display cases. I sure wouldn't pay retail or top dollar for a new pipe that I had to clean up immediately.

 

[Kyle Weiss]

There is an amount of UV that comes from shop lights, too. It can't be good for vulcanite.

 

[KevinM]

I don't know that oxidation affects smoking quality or harms the stem in any way, but its appearance can vary between a little distracting to reminiscent of the movie "Contagion", depending on the piper's tolerance for such things. Since I've found ways to keep it at bay, I'm kind of curious about it.

No lie -- On a warm day this past spring, I was out on the deck smoking an old Pete second with a vulcanite stem. The stem was mildly oxidized on part of the top side. Very mildly, in fact. I left the pipe outside on the table, did some yard work, and returned an hour or so later, after the evening temperature had dropped. It looked as though the stem had condensation on it. I ran a finger down the stem and the "condensation" didn't come off. I didn't think much of it. Still later, it looked as though the "condensation" had turned into a conspicuous layer of oxidation that hadn't been there pre-smoke. I removed it with the steps described above. I've unsuccessfully tried to replicate the event.

I used to think oxidation = exposure to light, but I've had a few experiences that suggest other factors might be in play. Oxidation is annoying, but it can be controlled, and you don't need to own a grinding/polishind machine to do so, thank goodness, says Mr. All Thumbs.

 

[Anonymous]

Perspiration will do it all by itself, even without light.

:face:

 

[Kyle Weiss]

I've received a couple of pipes that started life in the mid-70s, from a reputable person, and I know these pipes were kept properly for long-term storage. The vulcanite stems were a chocolate brown, but cleaned up easily.

Vulcanite is just high-maintenance no matter what...I bring my new Brebbia to the witness stand... :lol: ...it stays black for about, oh, five minutes. ale:

8)

 

[Dave_In_Philly]

My wife bought me a new Peterson out of a display case at Holts here in Philly. Same deal, clearly a new pipe, but the stem was already a little dull. It turned green as soon as I put it in my mouth for the first time. As long as the bowl clean, I'm sure the seller is on the up and up. Just clean it, polish it and enjoy.

 

[KevinM]

Kyle, Dave -- At times, I admit to choosing a pipe from the rack based on anticipated ease of cleanup. :| Suggest trying the mineral oil trick. The effort required/result achieved ratio appeals to me, and lord knows mineral oil is c h e a p. But if you long for that Mercedes Benz black glossy sheen, no it won't do that. Also, I've learned that it isn't possible to polish whatever that brown residue is out at the very tip. My remedy is to keep a dull blade handy -- pocket knife, box cutter, whatever -- and use a brisk, short, scraping motion to take it off. The micro mesh also works. Quite a bit of powdery residue comes off, even after you think, "There! Done." A sharp blade can nick the vulcanite, unless you have more dexterity than me, which is very possible. Then you apply the mineral oil. Wait. Then stem polish. I've also used Kyle's lip wax/sun blocker trick to good effect.

 

[Kyle Weiss]

Hey, don't credit me with that trick, I picked it up along the way cruisin' through BoB some months back. :lol: I think the only conclusion I came to that wasn't clearly specified is making sure the lip balm has SPF (##) going for it. It isn't always effective, as evidenced by my poor forever-chocolate-stemmed Brebbia. Meh, it's a good pipe.

Yeah, don't let a little restoration work steer you away from pipes. Guys here, including myself, have become quite adept at bringing out the spirit and luster of a forgotten briar. If it's in a retail store or even eBay, that just means "bargaining room" to me, if they aren't willing to send me home that day with a pipe that's presentable. I have succeeded, more often than not, by sending sellers a simple message on eBay:

"Your (product) is great, but I'm hesitant to bid/buy on it due to condition...it's going to take some work to get it useable by me. Can I offer ($__.____) for it, or can we talk about it some? I'd appreciate it!"

*shrug*

I like refurbishing pipes; I've learned a lot doing so.

8)

 

[Yooper]

I agree with the above posters, the pipe was probably displayed in a glass case or in a window where it absorbed sunlight causing the oxidation. It could have been on display for as long as eight years if the pipe is a 2004. The box switch implies that the pipe was separated from the box at some point, as it would be if the pipe were displayed. The Cumberland stems found on the Chestnut series may well be acrylic, I haven't come across any vulcanite Cumberland stems, but I may be wrong about that. Acrylic doesn't oxidize like vulcanite, so chances are it is an Amber Root, and somebody else got a Chestnut in an Amber Root box.

 

[Anonymous]

Word is that the Italian makers who did use vulcanite are switching to lucite now because the vulcanite they can get is the garbage grade Kyle's Brebbia stem's made from.

:face:

 

[KevinM]

I was in the paint store this a.m. and found a 3" x 4 x 1/2" flexible foam sanding pad in a variety of grits that can be used dry or wet. Only $1.00. Bought one for the next anti-oxidation offensive.