GBD Stem Oxidation

[Timbo]

Hi guys,

I recently won a lovely GBD Prehistoric poker on eBay. It arrived with a lovely black stem, but within five minutes of exposure to full sun it's stem has oxidised to a mottled khaki. Admittedly today's UV index is high, right on 11 for my area, but I made sure to rub at least three coats of Obsidian oil into it prior to taking it outside and left the last coat sitting thickly on the stem.

Any suggestions my fellow BoB's on how to restore it to splendour and keep it that way or is this to be a patio only pipe?

Thanks guys

Tim

 

[RDPipes]

Firstly, It sounds like the Obsidian oil is the culprit, maybe having it too thick, I don't know. But, one thing I do know is a stem can't possibly oxidize in that matter of time without help.
The Best way to take care of that oxidation is to wet sand it with 400, then 600, then 1000 and buff with white rouge. Then wax it with Paragon wax. I have over 350 pipes and half of them at least have vulcanite stems (including the ones I smoke) and none of them have turned green. And I smoke outside 99% of the time but, I also wipe the pipe down with a soft cloth when done to eliminate oils from fingers and moisture that may cause premature oxidation. I'd say send it to me to fix but, the cost of shipping it wouldn't be cost effective I don't think.

 

[Timbo]

Thanks for the offer and advice Cart,

Will call by the hardware store for some sandpapers this afternoon. I presume a bit of masking tape over the logo should protect it or is there another method used?

Thanks again

Tim

 

[RDPipes]

Thanks for the offer and advice Cart,

Will call by the hardware store for some sandpapers this afternoon. I presume a bit of masking tape over the logo should protect it or is there another method used?

Thanks again

Tim

Masking tape should work, I just carefully sand around it.

 

[Kyle Weiss]

...when you get the green parts all black'n'shiny again, I apply a very thin coating of lip balm all with some kind of sun protection factor (SPF) each time, all over the stem. I live in a place where we get more high UV-index sun than anywhere in the US (desert plus being around a mile up in elevation), and unless the vulcanite stem is made of particularly cheap material, it works ace.

Good luck, I bet you're happy autumn is coming soon.

8)

 

[SpeedyPete]

...when you get the green parts all black'n'shiny again, I apply a very thin coating of lip balm all with some kind of sun protection factor (SPF) each time, all over the stem.    I live in a place where we get more high UV-index sun than anywhere in the US (desert plus being around a mile up in elevation), and unless the vulcanite stem is made of particularly cheap material, it works ace.  

Good luck, I bet you're happy autumn is coming soon.  

8)

Kyle, I also have some pipes with his problem. I can't believe that it's cheap stems as some of them are Punto Oro's.

I smoke these pipes indoors all the time, so high UV can't be the problem? I clean the stems, rub with Obsidian and dry them off. The moment I put it between my lips I can sit and watch it turning yellow.

It drives me crazy :x

 

[monbla256]

...when you get the green parts all black'n'shiny again, I apply a very thin coating of lip balm all with some kind of sun protection factor (SPF) each time, all over the stem.    I live in a place where we get more high UV-index sun than anywhere in the US (desert plus being around a mile up in elevation), and unless the vulcanite stem is made of particularly cheap material, it works ace.  

Good luck, I bet you're happy autumn is coming soon.  

8)

Kyle, I also have some pipes with his problem. I can't believe that it's cheap stems as some of them are Punto Oro's.

I smoke these pipes indoors all the time, so high UV can't be the problem?  I clean the stems, rub with Obsidian and dry them off.  The moment I put it between my lips I can sit and watch it turning yellow.

It drives me crazy  :x

A pipe maker friend of mine, Bill Walther, has told me that this sort of thing is quite common with older pipes and some folks mouth. I have a highly acidic mouth chemistry and it can react with older hard rubber which leaches more of the sulphur in it as it gets older. I have a few NEW pipes with vulcanite stems and don't have this problem with them but as they pass about a decade of age they begin to react with my mouth! I've also noticed that many of my replacement bits that have been made from the German Ebonite seem to not react as quickly this way. The majority of my pipes were bought by me btwn 1970 thru 1985 and those that still have there original bits do this constantly!! So I buy a BIG bottle of Mineral Oil ( same thing as Obsidian Oil at a much better price ) and use it EVERY time I finish smoking the pipe. I also let the oil stay on the bit around an hour before I wipe the bit and put it up . Aaaaah old age is a marvelous thing in the world of used pipes !! :twisted: :twisted:

 

[Timbo]

...when you get the green parts all black'n'shiny again, I apply a very thin coating of lip balm all with some kind of sun protection factor (SPF) each time, all over the stem.    I live in a place where we get more high UV-index sun than anywhere in the US (desert plus being around a mile up in elevation), and unless the vulcanite stem is made of particularly cheap material, it works ace.  

Good luck, I bet you're happy autumn is coming soon.  

8)

Thanks for the tip on the lip balm Kyle, will give it a try, I've got a beeswax based UV lip balm that should do the trick.

And yes, I can't wait for Autumn to roll round. I stocked up on Gaslight just before it got hot and it's been too hot to smoke such a lat heavy blend. What a shame it's had to mature in my cellar for 7 months or more. :lol:

Thanks for the mineral oil tip Monbla, and yes my mouth is normally pretty acidic. Probably why I like ketchup so much.  :tongue: However I was using a softie so presumed that might provide a barrier between my spittle and the stem.

Cheers

Tim

 

[RDPipes]

Personally I don't believe Obsidian, Mineral or any other oil concoctions work, it's just all snake oil in my opinion that hides the oxidation. Nothing will really protect a stem from oxidation except a good wax and proper care.

 

[Kyle Weiss]

My bite will oxidize a stem pretty quick, so I feel all of ya that experience the same problem.  That's why I bought a buffing wheel, pipe rouge, polishing compound and carnauba wax.  It's the mechanical version of saving time and sore thumbs sanding by hand, and it really is the only way to long-term abate the problem.   However, hiding the oxidation is okay, too in a pinch.   If no one else knows, then no one knows.  Getting OCD with a crappy vulcanite stem and then an acid mouth (which I've been called once or twice) is maddening.   :lol:

Kyle, I also have some pipes with his problem. I can't believe that it's cheap stems as some of them are Punto Oro's.

I smoke these pipes indoors all the time, so high UV can't be the problem?  I clean the stems, rub with Obsidian and dry them off.  The moment I put it between my lips I can sit and watch it turning yellow.

It drives me crazy  :x

Brebbia has been my nemesis for this exact same reason.   They go green no matter what.  Beautiful pipes, HORRIBLE vulcanite used on the stems.   I just let 'em go brown and call it good, at least until I find the money to replace all the stems for acrylic.

Thanks for the tip on the lip balm Kyle, will give it a try, I've got a beeswax based UV lip balm that should do the trick.

And yes, I can't wait for Autumn to roll round. I stocked up on Gaslight just before it got hot and it's been too hot to smoke such a lat heavy blend. What a shame it's had to mature in my cellar for 7 months or more. :lol:

Gaslight always delivers me into winter quite nicely... I'm almost jealous.   Approaching spring here (sooner than the eastern US, anyway... :lol I'm looking to shelve the Latakia for the time being and tap into my red VAs...

...try out the lip balm.   The SPF only delays the inevitable, but it's better than firing up the buffing wheel or breaking out the sandpaper sooner rather than later.

 

[DireWolf]

I'm looking to shelve the Latakia for the time being and tap into my red VAs...

Try the McClelland's.

That stuff is the best.

 

[RDPipes]

A buffing wheel won't always take the oxidation off, specially in real bad cases,
I know, I've probably had over a 1000 pipes go through my hands between my customers and my own. Besides to get the oxidation from behind the button without rounding it over with a buffer you HAVE TO sand it out and around logos as well. If you don't want to do it the proper way fine but, don't suggest that sanding is the wrong way or for fools.

 

[MisterE]

Good 'ol nose wax on newly shined stem works, too. I'm not so anal about my stems as I used to be, but that always worked to ward of the oxidation. For a while anyway. Any vulcanite stem you actually smoke will get oxidized eventually.

There is truth to the acidic saliva of some oxidizing vulcanite more than others. The same thing happens with silver, gold, copper, and brass. Some of my colleagues' mouthpieces will turn gun blue or even black inside after a while of playing them. Mine, on the other hand, will only start to get slightly darker after several years. It all depends on the acidity (or whatever it is) of the individual. Curiously, my stems don't tend to oxidize very much either. I think it's because my acidity is relatively mild.

 

[RDPipes]

Good 'ol nose wax on newly shined stem works, too. I'm not so anal about my stems as I used to be, but that always worked to ward of the oxidation. For a while anyway. Any vulcanite stem you actually smoke will get oxidized eventually.

There is truth to the acidic saliva of some oxidizing vulcanite more than others. The same thing happens with silver, gold, copper, and brass. Some of my colleagues' mouthpieces will turn gun blue or even black inside after a while of playing them. Mine, on the other hand, will only start to get slightly darker after several years. It all depends on the acidity (or whatever it is) of the individual. Curiously, my stems don't tend to oxidize very much either. I think it's because my acidity is relatively mild.

Interesting thing you bring up "E", the acidity of my skin used to literally eat the bezels, set knob and bands off wristwatches and they'd get to a point that they were so eaten up they'd start cutting my wrist, then it was time for a new one. Didn't matter if they were gold or silver plate they were history in about 4 months or so. Don't wear a watch anymore but, I suspect it had to do with my drinking that added to my acidic nature. Don't have a problem with stems though but, I do take care of them to avoid it.

 

[riff raff]

Personally I don't believe Obsidian, Mineral or any other oil concoctions work, it's just all snake oil in my opinion that hides the oxidation. Nothing will really protect a stem from oxidation except a good wax and proper care.  

I'm with Cartaphilus on the oil treatment.

I restore a lot of GBD's and document my steps on the Reborn Pipes Blog (then posted here as well).
Here's a Comoy I did recently, but all vulcanite stems basically get the same treatment (sand and polish).
http://rebornpipes.com/2015/01/28/royal-comoy-603/

The brass GBD stem rondell is pretty durable - but don't sand directly on it.

 

[Kyle Weiss]

I've restored around 100 pipes and I can go from green to mirror-black on the worst case pipes with a buffng wheel. It's all about a special compound I get from my Tinder Box. It most certainly can be done.

 

[RDPipes]

They must have something REAL special in it to keep you from rounding off the button too, right? :fpalm: :lol!:

 

[riff raff]

I'm not a fan of just using the buffing wheel, that seems to be prone to creating waves in the vulcanite. Under the practiced hand, I can see it working.
I like getting all of the oxidation from the stem button and various creases, the buffing wheel just doesn't reach those. Sometimes some oxidation is left, versus damaging the stem lines.

 

[fishfly]

The brass GBD stem rondell is pretty durable - but don't sand directly on it.  

How do you deal with the "non-brass" (i. e. painted) GBD Logo on a vulcanite stem?

Dare you use an Oxi-clean soak with those?

 

[riff raff]

Stamped logos are a bit more tricky, like James Upsall, etc.
You do just have to work carefully around them. I wrap the paper around a thin, flat needle file, to get as close as possible.
I do avoid soaking those stems, or if necessary, put a big dab of grease over the logo for bad cases.