good stem polish

[The Libriarian]

Hello, I just used a magic eraser to get rid of oxidation on my pipe and it left is kinda dullish matte black. I have no experience with polish and was wondering whats the best to use? I know a polish wont bring it back to mirror like or factory quality. I dont have a buffing machine so it would all be done by hand. Also another question. Some of the oxidation is not coming off do I have to use that oxi clean dish soap stuff and soak the steam in it with water to bring the deep oxidation to the surface? I know there is quite a bit of threads dealing with each of these topics i would just like to clarify and make sure im gettind the right info for my particular situation. Thanks to all who answer.

Obisdian oil and paragon wax would be good maybe?

 

[Anonymous]

AFTER the crud is all off, if you want shiny,
http://www.sculpt.com/catalog_98/abrasives/micromesh.htm

Followed -- probably -- by the obsidian oil.

Wax does NOT seem to last even one smoke as a seal against moisture.

FWIW

:face:

 

[The Libriarian]

Thanks Yak! what size would I want the micromesh to be in? and what about the oxy clean?

 

[williamcharles]

Here's a link chock full of pipe stem cleaning, polishing, bowl cleaning....the works.
http://pipesmagazine.com/blog/put-that-in-your-pipe/briar-pipe-repairs-home-remedies/

 

[Anonymous]

Grit size would depend on what preliminary grade the magic eraser is (???), whether you followed up with fine-grit wet-dry paper (recommend wet) and how much you want it to look like shiny plastic when you're done.

To my eyes, 1200 silicon carbide wet followed by 3200 grit micromesh did everything I wanted.

:face:

 

[desertpiper]

I've had pretty good luck using "Bar Keepers Friend". for helping with the oxidation.

 

[Anonymous]

http://www.stemandbriar.com/repairs/buffing-polishing

:face:

 

[jamist]

Hello, I just used a magic eraser to get rid of oxidation on my pipe and it left is kinda dullish matte black. I have no experience with polish and was wondering whats the best to use? I know a polish wont bring it back to mirror like or factory quality. I dont have a buffing machine so it would all be done by hand. Also another question. Some of the oxidation is not coming off do I have to use that oxi clean dish soap stuff and soak the steam in it with water to bring the deep oxidation to the surface? I know there is quite a bit of threads dealing with each of these topics i would just like to clarify and make sure im gettind the right info for my particular situation. Thanks to all who answer.

Obisdian oil and paragon wax would be good maybe?

I don't think there's anything I hate more (about pipe smoking) than oxidized vulcanite. The guy who figures out how to get it off quickly, easily, and completely without a lot of elbow grease will become rich very quickly.

Walker Briar Works has a deoxidizer/cleaner that works pretty well. I also use Denicol's stem polish - that also does a good job. Soaking in Oxyclean over night does seem to pull the oxidation to the surface. As others have mentioned, finishing with microfiber pads really will bring the shine out. You can buy a set of small pads - maybe twelve total - starting at very fine, and working up to ridiculously fine - run the stem through the whole series, and the stem will gleam. Then, a coating of Obsidian oil for 30 minutes, followed by a wax (I use carnauba and a wheel) and you're about as good as you can get.

If after the stem is mostly polished, you've still got a brown, chocolately under glow in the stem there's still oxidation in there. Very frustrating. Walker's says if you leave their polish on for a bit, and then buff it again, it will come off. Maybe I just haven't left it on long enough. For those cases, I end up using 300/600 grit sandpaper to get it off,and then going through the above polishing cycle again to get the shine back.

It IS possible to get back to shiny bowling-ball black, but it's a LOT of work.

Good luck,

Jim D.

 

[Anonymous]

I just use olive oil from time to time and buff it. I worry about soaking a stem too much. It seems like it would make something porous like vulcanite brittle over time.

 

[riff raff]

I haven't bought any yet, but I found a cheaper alternative to Micromesh. Alpha Abrasives sells the same pad kits as Micromesh, thru Hobby Lobby. I emailed them and they sell the larger sheets of unpadded material in any size you like. I like the 3" x 4" sheets of micromesh, so when I finally wear out my current MM sheets, I'll give them a shot:
http://www.alphaabrasives.com/alpha/micro-cloth-finishing-products.php

I also like to use automotive plastic polish for a final buff and find it improves the shine after the last micromesh. It also seems to keep oxidation at bay, at least on my British made stems. Meguiars and others all sell products at your local autoparts stores.