It's best to use distilled water. I always keep an open gallon around for tobacco and egg incubation.Get the paper towel wet enough but not drippy.
It's best to use distilled water. I always keep an open gallon around for tobacco and egg incubation.
I make an aluminum foil cup that lies on top of the tobacco. Then wet a small piece of gauze or cotton with distilled water. Then place that in the cup.I've had tobacco dry out on me a couple of times. Instead of buying anything new to solve the problem, I tried a tea infuser.
Works great, and fits in a quart mason. Get the paper towel wet enough but not drippy. Pics should be self explanatory.
View attachment 14669
@Timbo
I don't know how to incubate tobacco but I do incubated quail, chicken, duck, goose and turkey eggs. They require a 100°F temperature, proper humidity, and, need regular turning! Various companies sell enclosed units to achieve a good hatch.
I've had tobacco dry out on me a couple of times. Instead of buying anything new to solve the problem, I tried a tea infuser.
Works great, and fits in a quart mason. Get the paper towel wet enough but not drippy. Pics should be self explanatory.
View attachment 14669
I’m thinking they would do the job but slower than my aluminum foil, cloth, distilled water method. Also more expensive.What's the problem with just using a Boveda pack? I figure I paid good money for the tobacco and I'm darn sure going to do what I can to make sure I smoke every bit of it. The Boveda packs are a small price to pay.
It's a temporary problem of winter and the furnace running. We'll be at 90% humidity come Spring and all the way to September/October.I wish I had that problem lgoldberg Its been like 90% humidity here. Everything weter than my whistle.
If you google GL Pease + humidifying, or something like that, you'll find an article or two AND his own website's FAQ page. Scroll through this for a particular, more scientific method than most use. It's not exactly precise, but once you establish a general percentage of moisture, you can work from there via weights. For instance, if the tobacco is dry and won't hold a pinch and slowly release, then you can estimate the moisture content to be maybe 10% or less. To get to that springy percentage, you want around 12-13% (trying to remember his numbers off hand, so I could be off a little). For ease of the example, if you have 100gm of tobacco, you'd need to add 2-3gm of water to bump it up to 12-13%. He also says it is difficult to use this method because you're guessing with your initial percentage, so he prefers a bowl and damp cloth over it, and then keep checking.I live in a fairly dry climate (15% humidity is about average). I've tried humidifying packs, tin foil with wet paper towels, etc. Boveda packs and the other methods just become too much of a hassle when I started amassing more jars lol. These days I just spritz/mist a little water directly into the jar, close it up, and the next day it's good to go!
I've read all his articles about cellaring, aging, and storing tobacco but must have missed the one about humidity. Your hot tub story had me laughing because it sounds like something I would have tried of course knowing my luck, the bowl would have tipped over and made a whole batch of tobacco tea in the tub lol!If you google GL Pease + humidifying, or something like that, you'll find an article or two AND his own website's FAQ page. Scroll through this for a particular, more scientific method than most use. It's not exactly precise, but once you establish a general percentage of moisture, you can work from there via weights. For instance, if the tobacco is dry and won't hold a pinch and slowly release, then you can estimate the moisture content to be maybe 10% or less. To get to that springy percentage, you want around 12-13% (trying to remember his numbers off hand, so I could be off a little). For ease of the example, if you have 100gm of tobacco, you'd need to add 2-3gm of water to bump it up to 12-13%. He also says it is difficult to use this method because you're guessing with your initial percentage, so he prefers a bowl and damp cloth over it, and then keep checking.
I've tried the bowl method and do not care for it. If I have to tend to it too much, like with that method, I go for something else, but I also don't need to do more than a jar at a time. Maybe if I had to do a couple LBs of tobacco, that would be a better method than scolding hot water on a clump of toilet paper in a small candy tin that I've poked holes through and sealed inside the jar.
I did experiment with a hot tub once. I was staying somewhere with a covered hot tub that was set to 105° or more, so lots of humidity under the cover. I put some tobacco in a plastic bowl that floated and left it overnight. I was surprised that the tobacco had soaked up almost zero moisture. Glad it didn't, because they used bromine to keep the water clean in the wooden hot tub. It smells better than chlorine, but I still wouldn't want that smell in my tobacco. Got stupid lucky it didn't work.
Well, I can't find it either, so maybe I dreamt it. I found where he talked about all the percentages in his FAQs, but not adding water by percentage. I swear he talked about something like this on this very board years ago though. Oh well, it won't be the last time I'm wrong about something.I've read all his articles about cellaring, aging, and storing tobacco but must have missed the one about humidity. Your hot tub story had me laughing because it sounds like something I would have tried of course knowing my luck, the bowl would have tipped over and made a whole batch of tobacco tea in the tub lol!
I've read all his articles about cellaring, aging, and storing tobacco but must have missed the one about humidity. Your hot tub story had me laughing because it sounds like something I would have tried of course knowing my luck, the bowl would have tipped over and made a whole batch of tobacco tea in the tub lol!
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