Oiling a pipe???

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Isagar

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I was browsing thru the web looking for new and better potential wax/polish for my pipes and I was on this Australian company's website that specialize in wood waxes/polishes and they have an short intro on benefits of oiling wood furnitures:

Oils extracted from plants on application, compliment the oils in the wood itself, adding lustre and enhancing the beauty of the grain. It is the easiest finish to apply, as like waxing, your piece is immediately ready for use.

One of the biggest benefits of using oil as a furniture treatment is that a little goes a long way — making it both beneficial for your furniture and economical.

Oil is great for intricately-carved timber, thirsty Asian hardwood furniture and for feeding unpolished surfaces, such as drawers and the undersides of tables. Buffing off with cloth wrapped over a clean, soft shoe brush helps prevent oil residue.

There is a common misconception that oiled furniture attracts dust. Sadly, this due to the historic use of linseed oil, which does tend to bleed back out of the timber, regardless of whether or not it was buffed after application.

Our Orange Oil is a great penetrating polish, which moisturises the timber without leaving any residue. The active ingredient is a natural mould inhibitor so therefore ideal for furniture in humid areas. It is easy to apply and buff off, leaving a satin sheen and a wonderful aroma in your home.
Does anyone has any experience with oiling a pipe? Is it a possible alternative or is it unsuitable?

EDIT: after doing some goggling around, i found that oiling the wood replenishes the natural oil in the wood. Which i assume is a good thing cause I know that cleaning the shank with alcohol eventually dries the wood out (according to Jess Chonowitsch). But I don't know if this is good for the stains of a pipe...
 
The very outermost skin of the briar along with the wax finish on it will readily absorb oil of any sort. If you want your pipe to turn very dark very quickly, then put oil on it.

:affraid: :clown: :x

:face:
 
A word of warning: do not use oils that are made for furniture finishing, such as tung oil, Danish oil, or even boiled linseed oil. They all have driers added to them that are toxic, and which may cause harmful effects to the smoker (I've heard that a pounding headache is among the most pleasant of these). Raw linseed oil is safer, though if you over-saturate your pipe, it can remain sticky for a long time, attracting dust. Mineral oil, like that sold in drug stores, is thinner than linseed oil, safe, and very inexpensive. Nose oil is even cheaper, readily available wherever pipes are normally perched, and easy to use: just rub your pipe on your nose (your forehead is acceptable, too).

By the way, if your pipe has a lacquer finish, oil will not penetrate it. You can still rub it on your nose if you like, though.
 
Linseed oil and olive oil never dry hard.

Ever.

That's why they put drying agents in linseed. :study:

Proceed accordingly.

:face:
 
And if you are a fisherman, rub the ferrules of your rod against your nose before putting them together and it will make it easier to pull apart.
And as an added plus, nose oil is tax free, much to the chagrin of the government!!
 
I would not, and have not added ANY oil to my pipes over the years other than that produced on my face, ie "nose oil" Since many pipes are or were "oil cured" to begin with ( Edward's and early pre 1970's Dunhills come to mind) applying exterior applications of some sort of oil would be sort of self defeating so to speak. Time and smoking will do the BEST coloring on ALL pipes. Just be patient, smoke 'em, rub 'em on your nose as you do and in 40 years they will be GREAT :twisted:
 
Carnauba wax has an extremely long lifespan of keeping a pipe shiny, provided the pipe isn't routinely smoked too hot, and was applied on a pipe sanded nicely and the wax used properly. This is the only reason why I'm okay with even using some "nose oil" or "forehead grease" to give the pipe an extra shine, because carnauba wax is dense, plastic-hard stuff. This means oils aren't soaking into the wood form the outside in, but the tobacco leftovers are coloring from the inside out. Much preferable for the health of a pipe.

Try just a clean, dry, soft rag or towel. Much better than oil or polish.

Pipes made of briar are personal, one-man "living things" in the sense they change, respond to interaction, and require a regimen of specific care. Furniture are more often than not "dead things" in the sense they require cleaning, preservation and occasional shining up for guests at times. Treat both accordingly, not similarly. :)
 
+1. Your pipe isn't furniture and won't benefit from being "oiled." A dab of mineral oil can be used as an antioxident on vulcanite stems.
 
Carnuba wax applied properly with a buffing wheel and a soft square of chamois or other fine square of non-scratching, non-lint attracting cloth now and again thereafter. No need for oil. Simple, pretty, and time tested.
 
I agree with Kyle. Just a decent cloth/rag does all I wish. I've a couple of microfiber ones that are preferred these days. I used to use a piece of warn denim. Others like flannel but thought it too soft.
 
I also just use a dry cloth. Have always thought oils and waxes would just clog the natural breathing of the briar. Have read that skin oil, ie, rubbing on your face is not good because your skin excretions contain salt, which is not good for any wood. Also have read that oils and waxes containing any kind of animal fat will eventually turn rancid, adversely affecting the taste of the pipe. Can't verify any of that is true, but a dry cloth works for me.
 
My pipes that were left "in the raw" get a coat of olive oil every couple months. Although it will darken the briar I think it looks good and never seemed to change the way they smoke. In one of my pipe books it mentioned a pipe maker who used nothing but olive oil on his pipes. So what kind of oil did they use for oil curing?
 

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