Yeah...it must be in a new facility as it looks like they take the blade and 'injection mold' part of the handle onto it...and then do it again for the softer inset panel that's the grip panel thing. Just a guess...but if most of the work is automated it would bring the per item cost down. It's seems like it was hand sharpened though...as a robot would have done a better job. lol But for the bucks...I just hit it with my belt sander and completed the job with a really excellent little stone holding clamp device that allows a very specific angle to used and took it though 5 grits and a polishing routine...final hone with flexcut gold and a rawhide strope...it's now scary sharp.
If'n I really wanted to do it right I would have transformed the grind, which is a straight 2-bevel, to a convex grind,,,which I vastly prefer. I can keep a convex grind sharpened in the field as well as I can do in my 'shop' on a bevel grind by using 1200 and then 1800 grit paper and a mouse pad...and about any flat surface. It's pretty cool. You just lay the mouse pad down with the paper on top and with the edge away from you folded under the far side of the pad...and drag the blade sidewise toward yourself...with just enough downward pressure so that it depresses the paper 'into' the mousepad (which has 'give' to it...right?) about 1/16" or so. How much you compress the pad with the knife through the paper dictates how much abrasion there is on the blade and in turn sort of depends on how cushy the pad is. OH! And the blade edge is oriented AWAY from you...it's like a 'backdrag' motion. Works astoundingly well, using good paper. I keep one of those aluminum clipboards with a long tight clamp and half a dozen sheets of fine grit paper in a nylon school pouch thing in the back of my wagon for that use. Since I'm also always on the lookout for wood when I'm out and about - as I'm a carver AND a stumbling knife maker - I also sharpen my small axe and hatchets with a convex grind and keep them pretty sharp. Seem stupid with such soft steel? Well there ARE small axes and hatchets that are made of GOOD steel and some that use standard steels that harden the edge pretty effectively. Using a convex grind on something like that makes a pretty effective tool. I have an Estwing that I hand filed a beard into, along with a sort of 'pull knife' edge along the steel shaft (gotta be carefull handling that baby) and the shaft section took maybe an hour to contour, while the hardened edge section of the beard stock removal took all day and a lot of sweat.
But I digress. lol