I always steer away from any pipe that has a silver spigot, but this Ser Jacopo spoke my name about 4-5 years ago. She's an average smoker, but the other evening while smoking a bowl of 7-20-4 Queen City Blend, I noticed that the silver on my pipe could use some attention. It's starting to look a little worn. So, what would my fellow BOBs here recommend to bring that silver look back to new?
Proper Way to Care For a Silver Spigot...
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Wingers silver polish.
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Wengers, not wingers. Damn phone.
I use a polish called Brasso, they also make a product called Silvo but they are essentially the same thing, a mildly abrasive metal polish.
Apply some, leave it a minute to dry and rub off with a soft cloth, repeat if required. Nice sparkly metal bits.
That reminds me it's time for the yearly polishing of the Petersons.
Apply some, leave it a minute to dry and rub off with a soft cloth, repeat if required. Nice sparkly metal bits.
That reminds me it's time for the yearly polishing of the Petersons.
I’d use a “Fabulustre” polishing cloth. I discovered these while working as the TA for the Metalsmithing Lab at a state university. Double cloth–one side impregnated with jeweler’s rouge and the other side is a final polish cloth. Measures 9" x 11". I don’t like the solvents that liquid silver polish uses and these have none. Very highly recommended.
Scallywag
Well-known member
Interesting you would steer away from silver spigots. I could see avoiding them due the price but they look great and the ability to take down the pipe mid smoke if needed is a nice plus! With that said just get a silver polishing cloth, available on amazon and everywhere really. Just gently "polish" it with the cloth, takes about 2 minutes! Its also way less mess and clean up than a paste from a tube....
This is the Fabulustre cloth that I suggested, above. Link provided.
Did you know that Brasso takes off oxidation from Vulcanite like a champ??
I’m not putting anyone’s suggestions down. But I looked at Brasso… Brasso is a mixture of powdered abrasives (silicon dioxide, kaolin and kaolinite)2 in a liquid medium of kerosene3, fatty acids4 and aqueous ammonia5. The abrasives scrape the layer of tarnish from the metal surface and smooth any scratch marks. I maybe don’t mind it on the silver parts, but I think I’d draw the line on using it on my stems. I’ve come in contact with enough chemicals in my life.
I did not know that, will have to give it a crack on my next pipe I restore. Will obviously give it a good clean afterwards to clear off nasties.
Any suggestions for length of application to remove stem oxidation Pipe Kitty?
Oops... just saw your query. If using the Brasso for oxidation on Vulcanite, just wipe it off after 20 secs or so.
I get it. I wipe it off quickly and follow with micro sanding with olive oil. This is a quickie trick when a wheel isn't available.
Sweet, thanks Kitty, so pretty much like when applying to metal.
I did not know the trick with using olive oil when micro sanding either, you're full of tips. I've mostly used water and sanding pads.
Do you use the oil at all grades or just the finer ones?
Quick update on the Brasso on stems.
I'm restoring a Peterson 306 pipe from the 1960's/70's and the stem from then is fully oxidised. I tried applying a little brasso and removing it a mintute later and it seemed to have no effect of the oxidisation.
Though I'm not surprised as this pipe has been an utter mongrel to restore, requiring lots of actions I wouldn't normally do just to get the pipe and stem clear for smoking.
Will try the usual sanding tomorrow to see what happens.
I'm restoring a Peterson 306 pipe from the 1960's/70's and the stem from then is fully oxidised. I tried applying a little brasso and removing it a mintute later and it seemed to have no effect of the oxidisation.
Though I'm not surprised as this pipe has been an utter mongrel to restore, requiring lots of actions I wouldn't normally do just to get the pipe and stem clear for smoking.
Will try the usual sanding tomorrow to see what happens.
I think you have to remove the oxidized rubber (vulcanite?) and get to the clean part underneath then polish that. If the oxidized layer is thick enough maybe the chemicals in Brasso need multiple applications, etc. I used to use Denicare quite a bit and came to believe it was the elbow grease that really made the difference.
As always I'm lazy mate and am always looking at ways to cut the elbow grease.
I could imagine brasso providing a good final polish after sanding for people without buffers.
Ended up using my pads to sand the stem, got it perfect shiny black.
Had one smoke and it's already oxidised again, think I'll send it off for a restemming.
Some of those old Pete's really have crap quality stems, this is my fitfh out of about 25 old Pete pipes.
Have seen the same issue in Deluxe level pipes too, so it's not just the entry level pipes.
Had one smoke and it's already oxidised again, think I'll send it off for a restemming.
Some of those old Pete's really have crap quality stems, this is my fitfh out of about 25 old Pete pipes.
Have seen the same issue in Deluxe level pipes too, so it's not just the entry level pipes.
Well... just to be clear, the Brasso is for just removing oxidation. Depending on how thick the oxidation is, you may need a couple passes. You can clean it up with the olive oil (any kind will do), and then you can polish it with smooth polishing pads and you will get a nice subtly shiny finish. It won't be as shiny as being put on a wheel, but good enough.
