Refurbishing estate pipes

[Koobers]

Hunter5117 -- Thanks! Very interesting. I'm definitely picking up some very fine sandpaper this weekend.

One more question, just to be sure: When lightly sanding, did I understand you to say that you keep the stem and the sandpaper wet during this process, per the nature of how this specialized sandpaper was intended to be used?

Thanks again.

I use something called Micro-mesh, it's like an extremely high grit sand paper but it uses a cloth like material instead of paper so it's much more durable. It can be used both wet or dry and I have found that it doesn't matter much which way you use it because either method is extremely effective. It starts out at 1500 grit and goes all the way up to 12000 grit and an entire kit that includes 1500, 1800, 2400, 3200, 4000, 6000, 8000, & 12000 in 3"x4" patches sells on Amazon for about $15. It also comes in a two sided variety with foam in the middle that works really well. With such a high final grit of 12000 you don't even need any kind of polish and it works both on the bowl and stem equally well. I would put it up against any buffer or polish and it would do a better job 100% of the time shining to a high gloss finish. If you don't want the stem or bowl to be as glossy you just stop at one of the lower grits. It doesn't take long either, of course the more time you put into it the better the results will be but I had a Savinelli Dry System estate pipe looking brand new in about 20 mins.

I'd only recommend a buffer if you plan on doing a lot of pipes and have a limited amount of time. You can get good results on a buffing wheel if you have the right kind of buffer and use the right kind of wheels and compounds.

 

[AlanJohn]

Thanks forsooth, I shall have to look out for that on amazon. It sounds like the stuff that women use to buff their nails, that works great using 4 different buffer sets.

 

[riff raff]

I've been using the micromesh pad pads set for my last few refurb's and it works great. I bought the 1x2" size, which I've learned is a little too small. I'll move to the 3" x 4" size when the small set gets worn out. (they don't seem to wear out easily) I always finish with Blue Magic or Meguiars plastic polish (available at most auto parts stores). That really tops it off, but is best applied via a wheel. That finish seems to keep the vulcanite shiny black longer than just the micromesh. I use 2000 grit wet sandpaper for sharp angles the micromesh won't contact. I previously used a variable speed drill for buffing, but recently put together a motor/arbor set.

 

[Boulder]

I'd like some advice and guidance on fixing up estate pipes. I've read several web sites and wonder if this something I can learn over time or if this isn't for the faint of heart?

I'd love to enrich the smoking hobby by fixing them up and maybe even carving my own some day. I'd love some advice from the group is possible.

Thanks in advance,

Martin

I have come accross loads of helpful vids on youtube.

 

[Boulder]

I didn't like the wax idea because it is a rustic pipe with lots and lots of tiny, tiny pits and grooves. lots of places I won't be able to remove the wax. maybe with a toothbrush, but I wasn't sure if I'd end up with a brown shiny pipe with whitish wax specks all over the place.

I find olive oil works great on my rustic.